Zegna Monterubello series watches: Girard Perregaux GP03300-0030 mechanical automatic winding movement, power reserve of more than 46 hours, inheriting the design inspiration of the 1940s. Hermès Grand Opening Enamel Watch: in cooperation with the famous Swiss enamel art master Anita Porchet, equipped with the H1928 automatic winding movement specially made for this purpose. Chanel Premiere Floating Tourbillon: Launched the first high-complexity mechanical female watch, produced in collaboration with watchmakers from Renaud & Papi, the advanced research and development department of Audemars Piguet, Switzerland DIOR VIII white ceramic watch: Inspired by the classic cotton canvas color of haute couture dresses, it was created in the Dior Watch Studio in La Chaux-de-Fond, home of the Swiss watch industry. Hermès Arceau straw-inlaid watch: inheriting the Arceau series created in 1978, the “stalk inlay” technology is presented in a 41 mm diameter white gold case. Vuitton Tambour Minute Repeater: Created by Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique du Temps fine watchmaking workshop in Geneva.
Watch life brought by the quartz crisis
In addition to the phrase ‘more professional than fashion brands, more fashionable than professional watches’, what else can better describe the professional watches launched by fashion brands? As early as three years ago, Hermès’ first tourbillon watch was on par with other professional watches on the list of ‘value-saving watches’ listed by well-known watch critic Zhong Yonglin. ‘There is a self-produced movement, and its value has not yet been discovered.’ Zhong Yonglin said at the time.
The watchmaking paths of fashion brands are a little bit the same.
If it were not for the quartz crisis of the 1970s and 1980s, fashion brands might not have entered the watch industry so early. The quartz movement, which is cheap, accurate, and easy to maintain, has impacted the traditional watchmaking industry and lowered the threshold for the watch industry. However, without a self-moving movement, the watch will appear shallow. Apart from talking about design, there is not much to talk about, and of course it cannot enter the mainstream watch market.
The top fashion brands that have tasted the sweetness of the watch industry obviously also want to have a certain right to speak in the watch industry. They either cooperate with the top brands to launch professional watches, or start their development by acquiring a small watch factory in Switzerland to establish their own watchmaking base. Independent movement, step by step into the professional watchmaking industry.
‘Luxury brands have strong capital. They integrate the resources of the Swiss watch industry well and can be quickly integrated into the field of high-end watches. These brands cooperated with Swiss watch factories in the early days, but the resources were scattered and the industry was not System, there is no complete series. Later, they began to acquire peripheral resources, such as watch band factories, watch case factories, etc., to improve their own watchmaking by controlling shares. ‘Senior watchmaker Chang Wei summarized top fashion like this The road to brand watches.
For example, Hermes established the first exclusive watch production workshop in Bill, Switzerland in 1978, expanded the watch department in 1998, and invested a lot of resources in the new factory of Hermes watches. After launching a Dressage watch with Hermes H1928 movement in cooperation with Vaucher movement factory in 2003, Hermes bought a 25% stake in this movement factory in 2006, and then acquired the famous Swiss watch with a history of more than 125 years. A 32.5% stake in JosephErard, a shell-making company. Through investment and cooperation, Hermes has introduced its own unique models to the market. These watches are equipped with Hermes mechanical movements.
Fast professional shortcuts
But more top fashion brands take a ‘cooperation’ shortcut.
The most representative of them is Chanel. Chanel, which entered the watch industry only in 1987, began to design designs, mainly quartz movements, and was commissioned to manufacture in Switzerland. Soon, in 1993, Chanel began to acquire watch factories, and developed products with self-made movements and brand identity. The introduction of the J12 watch in 2000 earned Chanel a good name, and also gave Chanel a label of ‘technical school’ to distinguish it from other fashionable watch brands. In 2008, Chanel cooperated with the famous old Swiss watch Audemars Piguet factory, launched the Calibre 3125 equipped with Audemars Piguet automatic movement in the J12 series, and was regarded as a classic by many collectors. It also explored a ‘quick specialization’ ‘path of.
Since Dior officially launched the watch series in 1975, while emphasizing the integration of the brand’s haute couture elements into the watch design, it has also continued to make articles on the breakthrough of the movement. Until 2005, when ‘borrowing power’ Zenith, Dior launched the Chiffre Rouge Irreductible chronograph with Zenith ElPrimero high-frequency chronograph movement, Dior also announced the entry into the ranks of advanced complications watch.
The road of “cooperation” and rapid professionalization with professional brands has been respected by many brands today. Zegna tasted the sweetness of cooperating with Girard Perregaux in the special series of centennial celebrations and tried to set foot on the road of professional watches.
At the Baselworld Watch Fair, many top fashion brands are also showing their strengths: Louis Vuitton’s TamborSpin Time Scroll Watch, Dior VIII Watch, Chanel Première Floating Tourbillon Watch, all without exception Demonstrating the brand’s achievements in sophisticated watches …
‘Now, the line between some fashion watch brands and traditional watches has been blurred. They all have their own watchmaking factories, and they are no longer the traditional fashion watch brands.’ Pan Jian, editor-in-chief of Fashion Time Say.
This shift in the professionalization of fashion brand watches is good news for consumers, especially female consumers. Jessica, a senior affairs manager in a Hong Kong-owned shopping mall, just bought a Chanel J12. ‘The reason why I chose this watch is that it is thicker and more connotative than ordinary fashion watches,’ Jessica said. ‘And J12 often appears in The back cover of a fashion magazine, I think it has the same characteristics as the 2.55 bag, and it can be seen at a glance. There are also many magazines that use it to match clothing, and can draw on different effects! ‘
In the view of brand expert Gu Huanyu, although fashion luxury brands are lacking in traditional watch culture, this has little impact on ‘non-professional’ watch consumers. There are hundreds of new models in this year. In addition to the particularly outstanding technology with epoch-making significance, consumers wearing watches will pay more attention to the first impression. Fashion brand design watches pay attention to the concept of design and the details of production. The ability to provide more services such as customization is undoubtedly an advantage in the fierce competition in the watch industry.
‘These fashion brands’ entry into the field of professional watchmaking has undoubtedly broadened people’s understanding of clocks. These brands are not only inferior to professional watchmaking brands in the development and production of professional movements, but also more innovative in the design of dials and cases. ‘Because these fashion brands are famous for their own design, it is a matter of familiarity for them to apply the design elements of their fashions to the design of watches.’ Chang Wei said.